VZ with sludge - best process to remove?

Remove the valve covers and clean them up. Then service more regularly with good quality oil. 10k or 6 months.

As your mechanic has stated. Using a oil flush additive may dislodge any scum and cause more problems.

 

If its running fine do nothing, your only going to disturb it and it could clog up oil galleries, just be sure to change oil regularly and use the good stuff.

 

I don't really know, but would running a thinner oil for a bit help to soften it up a bit? I have read about people using diesel as oil, and not revving past 2000rpm.

 

Alloytec's are awesome at clogging themselves up with sludge.





The top two pictures are from a Rodeo. Wasnt serviced for 60,000km. Owners mate did an oilchange for him, got less than 1 litre out. Then 3 days later it skipped teeth on the timing chains.

Bottom picture is from a VE, no service in 45,000km

 

I would do a few short oil changes (1k-2k km) with a standard 10W30 oil (shell,castrol,valvoline) and changing the filter with a genuine one every time. When things improve switch to a long life syn (M1 0w40, Ultra 5w40) and genuine filter and start to extend your changes to 5k+ km. Change you PCV value and tubing and clean the TB. Change all the other fluids (brake, trans, diff, coolant) and filters(trans, fuel, air).

 

I would not use expensive oil first up because I believe you would not get the full benefit out of it. It’s not so much the oil you put in first but the filter interval because it will get clogged quickly as shown by sabbath's pic. I would and do use a genuine oil filter because there good quality (US made) and the oil analysis I’ve done with mine have shown they pick up most/all particles greater then 10 microns. You can still go with just will mineral oil if you want but if you’re not vigilant with your changes this will happen again and as things clean up you extend your interval changes even longer 10k+ kms on long life syn. Up to you, just my opinion.

 

SabathSS can't believe those photo's ay... I guess that's what happens when you leave an oil change for 45,000km's+ !!!

 

Interference design.

 

Interference. They like to smash valves. I've seen one that snapped the cam girdles in the head because there was that much force. As for the VE, it survived.

 

Exactly. It's a good picture to bring out to show people what being cheap and not shelling out $60 for oil and $12 for a filter once a year could result in.

 

i would drain and change filter

fill with diesel idle for 10 -15 mins ,drain change filter and fill with new oil

repeat again in 1K the do regular oil and filter changes 5K~10k

 

Um, the OP said that the cheapo basic oils like Castrol GTX and valvoline XLD have high detergent. Is this true ?
I've always gone by the logic that expensive oils have better / more detergents and therefor do a better job cleaning your engine. Can anyone confirm ?

Back on topic, if your engine is sludged up bad i don't think any number of oil changes is going to fix it. I'd be definitely popping the rocker covers off and scrubbing it if you have the skills to do so. Be carefull and make sure you don't let any chunks fall down the galleries.... plug them with rag before you do anything. A Denstist vacuum would be awesome for this job.

 

the best oil to use for "cleaning" purposes is a diesel oil, caltex "delo 400" has the highest detergent rating ive come across, castrol GTX diesel is pretty good too

most alloytecs are too far gone to flush out... usually needs the covers and sump off to do the job properly

 

Diesel engine oil, rally boys use it....il let u figure out why!

 

In my opinion the oils used are adding to the sluge problem because of additives in the oil. I would not use a Valvoline oil even if I got a tanker load for nothing.
Use Castrol Modern engine and change the oil and filter every 6000 k works out about the same as the dearer oil with 10 000 k change but is cleaner for the engine .
I would flush it with 50% Kero and engine oil a few times and put in a new oil filter each time . Drive it slowly around the block each time. Then when the oil filter stays clean . Then new oil and filter and see how she goes for a while and if ok new oil again in a few weeks . Then every 6000 k.
Some service people charge you for top expensive oils but put in crap oil instead . I have seen situations where the oil was not changed at all.
If I am paying for a service I put a nail polish seal on the sump plug although some wise asses just crack the plug and retighten and I sample the oil after . Mostly I do my own .
Also if you get oil into the cooling system after it is fixed run Kero as coolant for a while to absorb and strip the oil , then water to strip the kero then normal coolant .

 

never buy a company car or one with a poor service history or no history