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VZ SV6 Sump Removal

HQ2VL

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Removing VZ V6 Sump

This job sucks but if you're going to do it you may as well do the timing cover, engine mounts and control arm bushes all at the same time!!!
Also the oil pickup is bolted to the sump and connected to the oil pump via an o-ring so it just comes out with the sump.
Do at you own risk, I'm not a mechanic this is just how I have done it!!!
Also you will need a torque wrench to put Harmonic balancer back on and a new bolt, apparently it is a single use item. 100NM + 150 Degrees

0. Drain oil from vehicle.
1. Raise vehicle on jack stands at the front, take wheels off and put behind jack stands just incase!!!
2. Undo strut top plates, you will need 24mm spanner and what seems to be a 10.5mm socket to hold the inner most part of the strut!
(I used a single hex 11mm socket also helps to remove Z bars from control arms 24mm 30mm and 4x13mm per Z bar)
3. Loosen off steering knuckle just above steering rack this is a 13mm bolt I think (put seat belt through steering wheel to hold it straight)
4. Undo engine mount to K-frame bolts (18mm) one each side.
5. Remove Harmonic Balancer, you will need a 19mm socket, breaker bar and 3 claw pulley puller (about $70-$80 from Repco)
you will also have to STOP engine from turning over while you are undoing this bolt.
6. Remove the 3 bottom bolts on the Timing cover (13mm)



7. Remove the 2x10mm bolts holding the power steering line to the sump and oil sensor plug.
8. Undo and remove dipstick 1x10mm
9. Place jack under bellhousing of gear box and jack up engine off mounts to highest point, note not to lift vehicle off stands
also place piece of wood between jack and bellhousing to spread the load.



10.Undo the four bottom bellhousing to sump bolts, these are the two outside holes each side in the picture the middle one is not used.
note these are E14 Torx bolts, I bought a set from Super Cheap for $35



11.Remove the rear main oil seal bolts 2x10mm
12.Remove all sump bolts there should be 11x13mm
13.Lower engine back onto mounts to take tension off sump as it gets a bit squashed between timing cover and bellhousing.
14.Pry sump from block at passengers side nearest to the back, and drivers side at the front with a large flat head screwdriver.
15.Lift engine from bellhousing back to full height, again make sure your not lifting the vehicle from jack stands!!!
16.Put another jack under K-frame then undo rear K-frame bolts 2x18mm
17.Loosen front K-frame bolts 2x16mm (I left mine in but just undid them till they were nearly out)
18.Lower K-frame down until you can remove sump, I had to turn the crank by hand to make clearance between the sump and crank.
19.Scrape old gasket goo off with a razor blade and degrease sump and oil pickup.
20.MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE OIL PICK SEAL, IF YOU DONT YOU WILL SUCK AIR INTO THE OIL PUMP AND THROW A CHECK OIL WARNING EVERY TIME YOU GO UPWARD OF 1500RPM
($8 off eBay) the new ring seats in the top of the oil pickup. also note the two holes where the oil pickup bolts in.



21.Lower engine back onto mounts to spread the timing cover to bellhousing gap again.
22.Put new goo on sump and bottom of timing cover, I found it was easier to press the front of the sump into the timing cover and then wedge the back up into the bellhousing.
23.Tighten sump bolts then reverse pretty much everything above and your done.



Sorry for the pictures but I wasn't really planning on doing this thread, Hope they help anyway!!

If I missed anything fell free to add it!
 
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Commowar

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If you get really bored and feel like doing it again.. haha. Some step by step pics of the process would be real handy! One's posted didn't load
 

Commowar

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That's much better. Just need to add some pics for the first steps. Makes it look very doable. Cheers
 
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dooboolacky

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Hi, I am a commodore/list newbie.

Sadly I need to remove the sump on an early 2006 VZ V6 LE0 sedan. Purchased a lemon. The initial symptom was water leaking into one of the spark plug wells which was incredibly corroded down at the base. After removing the valve covers they turned out to be filled with oil sludge too. I replaced both cylinder heads, oil pump , water pump and the timing chains and she sprang into life, good as new I thought, but after a 50 odd km drive there was a loss of power a bit of engine knocking and then a km down the road it seemed to seize up. When the engine cooled down it was possible to restart, but I suspect the
problem is lack of oil circulation caused by a blocked oil pickup. Compression is 140psi in each cylinder, so I hope there is no serious damage at this point.

I was looking at these instructions and it all sounded so simple and straightforward, but it seems to have become more complicated than I thought. I was hoping to remove the sump with car up on wheel ramps (thats where it is at the moment), but I am having a bit of trouble undoing the bolt on driver side holding the steering rack to the K-frame. Do you think it will be possible to undo it without snapping something, or does it have the weight of the car on it, or is it under hydraulic pressure from the power steering? The passenger side bolt undoes pretty easy.

And is it possible to remove the the bolts attaching to the steering rack to the wheels from underneath the vehicle or is that only possible through the wheel arches, with wheels removed?

Thanks for any advice.
 

vc commodore

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The rack is held to the k-frame by a 19MM nut and bolt...They can be tight, but a little muscle will undo it, whether the weight of the car is on it or not.....Hydraulic pressure has zippo to do with it as well.

There is bugger all chance of snapping the nut or bolt undoing it.....My suggestion would be to put a ring spanner on the nut or bolt head from underneath and hit the spanner with a hammer, to loosen it up......From there it should be plain sailing
 

dooboolacky

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OK! thank you!
I was getting a bit worried, because the bolt in question seemed to be getting tighter and tighter, the more I turned it.
 

vc commodore

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OK! thank you!
I was getting a bit worried, because the bolt in question seemed to be getting tighter and tighter, the more I turned it.
You must have been turning it the wrong way.

It goes lefty loosey, rightie tightie
 

dooboolacky

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With the car up on ramps, and the instructions above (thanks peoples!), I was able to get the sump off eventually. I didn't need to loosen the K-frame at all - just the steering rack which needed to be loose enough to drop down behind/below the K-frame. So I also had to remove the screw at the front of the k-frame holding the power steering fluid line and the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering column, that and I had to jack up the front driver side wheel so the steering rack had a bit of extra play.

After that there was a load of sump sludge waiting for me, the rim of the oil pickup was full of chunky oil residue particles and there was a small pile that had settled out directly under the pickup. My latest worry is the few dozen slivers of shiny metal in amongst all that sludge :-( . So with the metal fragments, the engine knocking I mentioned previously, and presumably restricted oil flow through the pickup, I am guessing the fragments are likely from a cooked bearing?

frag1.JPG

(The fragments - not necessarily circular, but twisted, bent and less than 0.5mm thick)

I pulled out as many fragments as I could find and arranged them to try and get some idea of size of the part they might have come from. I can't see any visible source back up under the engine. But my google searches for "3.6l LE0 V6 main bearing set" seem to suggest that there are 4main crankshaft bearings, one of which may or may not be flanged. So I was wondering if my metal fragments look like they might have come from a flanged bearing, and if so which of the four is it likely to be? Or is there any other more likely origin?
 
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