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Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by swift85, Mar 22, 2009.
Mint got away with it as the job went on I thought I was gonna damage something
i did mine yesterday for the 1st time, the drivers rear bolt is left in as is the passengers front bolt, undo hose etc, then i levered it up, replaced plugs easy as
Upper Intake Manifold Removal
Hi All, I just finished replacing my thermostat and housing, and removed the upper inlet manifold (Plenum in some workshop manuals - Haynes). This left the lower part of the intake manifold attached to the block. Holden use words such as intake manifold assembly - this is both upper and lower manifolds still bolted together as a unit as I see it. I marked the bolts etc as I did the job over 3 days and wanted no mixups down the track.
The images I have attached are after the specific bolts are removed to allow the upper manifold to be removed, exposing the remains of the paper gasket on the lower half of the intake manifold still attached to the block.
my manifold is a silver one piece only five bolts holding it down
I'd say ya have missed the bolt at the back when you counted.
Upper intake manifold and the lower intake manifold, or runners I think others called them.. To remove the lower use riceys way. Also a good way of doing the thermostat aswell.
I never replaced the gasket brtween upper and lower on my car and it was fine. You guys are way too sensitive and need to stop being little bitches. If someone has a different way why bash them for it. Accept it and move on.
Maces description is to remove the upper intake, that's because that's all they replaces
If your going to do something do it properly and not half arsed and short cut and hope............dont worry bout the coin and just take the manifold off....get a new gasket on there and while your at it clean out the crap in your manifold with carby cleaner...why people think quick and short cuts are best is beyond me....if your too lazy to do the best job you can 1st time then get someone who will to do it...other wise you'll be doing the job again...trust me id love a coin for every job ive fixed and redone properly from so called professional mechanics who took short cuts....
Professional mechanics arent going to dismantle and clean out the manifold for free when simply changing plugs. Let's try and keep the thread logical.
Not separating the manifold to save tearing a gasket is common sense, not a shortcut. Obviously if you want to clean it out then you separate, but as I said that's so obvious as to not require mentioning.
If I had a coin for every job done by a non professional that Ive had to fix Id be ten times richer than you.
Is the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold steel/rubber gasket reusable?
Whoops - posted it twice
Is the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold steel/rubber gasket reusable?
Decided to change my spark plugs, and trialed my various tools on the right bank center spark plug. Found a small quantity of motor oil (?) at the bottom of the spark plug tube. Soaked it up with cardboard strips before I loosened the plug. Is that some assembly oil from the factory? The seal on the ignition coil had been distorted upon assembly and seemed very dry. When I reinstalled the coil a light smear of motor oil on the seal helped the seal go in very smoothly. I was pleasantly surprised by the old spark plug (09/2004 build and low km at 90Kms). I have the steel/rubber gasket between the upper manifold/plenum and the lower intake manifold. (Changed the thermostat housing a month or so back). The upper and lower manifolds can be split to do the spark plugs, and some contributors have implied that they did not have to replace the rubber/steel gasket as they loosened off the bolts moved the upper mainfold/plenum carefully to the side, replaced the plugs and refastened the upper manifold back into place. Is the final test of recycling the upper gasket that no air leaks are evident? I have a new gasket on hand, but curiosity has the better of me. So my query is, is the rubber/steel gasket reusable?
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I just got a price on inlet manifold gasket and he quoted me 2 different prices? one for just the gasket and the other for a plethium or something? couldn't quite hear what he was saying, no idea gonna change plugs today, might aswell do the gasket at the same time
old thread but my 2 cents. did this yesterday. You can get 3 to the 3 back plugs without removing the manifold. to get the front 3 plugs i undid the 4 long bolts in the middle of the manifold but it wouldnt come off as one piece? so i also undid the front and rear bolts to split the manifold leaving the runners exposed. lifted the front of manifold up and jammed a hammer handle between manifold and block to hold the manifold up just high enough to get access to the front 3 coilpacks and plugs. i had the paper gaskets but i was able to reuse them. whole job took around 2 hours would of been quicker but i ####ed around trying to lift the whole manifold as one. anyways car runs much better now. easy job.
I too am finding it hard to lift as a one piece after removing only the 4 middle bolts. I don't know where to lift from and how much force I need to apply. Fearing a breakage and without a replacement gasket on a weekend, looks like I will have to leave it for the time being.
Anybody know how to lift the manifold as suggested as a one piece.
You must undo all 6 bolts to lift the plenum (aluminium thingy in middle of engine top) as well as unplug the wiring harness to 2 plugs, one front centre, and one rear drivers side of plenum.
And don't forget the vacuum hoses, 5 in total, connected to the plenum in various places.
Once you get the plenum off you will then have to plug the manifold inlets with a piece of rag to all 6.
Clean off the old paper gasket with a carpenters wood chisel and/or snap off blade box cutter.
A bit of emery cloth/light sand paper can be used to do the final clean.
Vacuum the manifold with a household vacuum cleaner to remove all old gasket etc., before removing the rags, just don't suck the rag into the vacuum cleaner.
You may also have to drill/dig the old gasket plastic tabs out of the manifold to be able to fit the new gasket.
Do this while running the vacuum cleaner up against the drill bit to catch all plastic swarf(drill filings)
DO NOT use gasket goo in any form, fit the new gasket dry.
I appreciate this is the way the manuals say to do it.
I was however, referring to the few people in this thread that said you do not need to do this , that just 4 bolts and no gasket repairs.
Ive done what they said but it is still not lifting. Id really appreciate one of those people to show a photo of where to lift it and how much force is required ( if only 4 bolts removed)
I did not use a manual, I simply looked at it and went ahead, with no problems.
I have done the plugs on 3 VZ's now, and I have always renewed the gasket.
Once you replace the gasket with the new rubber type, it is easy to do it next time as I had to because of faulty coils.
I tried with only 4 bolts removed and it would not lift until I removed the other 2.
I wonder if they are saying you loosen the other 2 bolts but leave them in place to locate the plenum in the correct place.
If so, I really cannot see the logic because any lifting of the plenum will break the gasket if it is the paper type, so a vacuum leak could be created.
What you have to understand is when the dealership does the plugs, they get paid for the time as per the book, so replacing the gasket is something they can do later, and of course, charge you for it.
I'm hearing you buddy. I can't lift it with 4 bolts removed so I don't know what this "expert" is on about, he hasn't replied to my private message either.
I guess I can get the metal gasket and do it properly, what's it called exactly that I need?
I tried this and cracked the plastic cover under the manifold trying to lift it, also couldn't get the manifold to lift. Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong how if I've done major damage cracking that cover.
have just replaced plugs and coils to fix a miss. Car now starts, runs smooth, but stalls after 2-3 secs. I cannot see any disconnected Vacuum lines or connectors. Any i may have missed?
Hi guys. Just tried to take off the manifold by leaving the front and rear bolts and it won't move. Tried levering with a plank of wood, but only cracked the plastic cover in the process.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to replace the paper gasket if I don't have to.
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