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[VT-VX] VX front Brake pad Change How To Detailed

lothaer

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Hey im about to change my Brake Pads and this guide is very useful, the second image isnt work though.

What size are they bolt pins? it looks like your using a 12mm bit.
 

JRNZER

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Might sound like a silly question but how do you know if your discs need to be machined?
My front brakes have just started to squeal a little bit.
 

edals

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If they are sqealing your pads need changing or its just a build up pf dust. You want to just replace your discs, It costs like $40 for a new disc. Its costs about $30 to have each disc machined, If you machine them, they are thinner and more prone to warp faster.
 

madsav

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Did the girlfriends car tonight, vx noticed when trying to slide the front brakes in on the caliper there are 2 little guide pins it doesn't hurt to rip them out as they were only there for the Holden brakes from factory.
 

ojame

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I used this guide to replace my front pads this morning. First ones took me about 45mins as I didn't know what I was doing - the second set took me about 10 mins.

Just to add to the guide:

Someone in this thread mentioned to undo the bottom bin and then swing the calliper up. I did this and it was really easy, just make sure you have some wire as the calliper won't stay up by itself:



Someone in this thread also mentioned to grease the two sliding pins. I was a little confused, so I took a photo to help anyone else out (make sure you put the rubber boot back on properly):



Hey im about to change my Brake Pads and this guide is very useful, the second image isnt work though.

What size are they bolt pins? it looks like your using a 12mm bit.
Yep, it's 12mm (the two bolts that hold the calliper together). Note: you don't need a socket set, I just used a ring spanner and a shifter (to hold the inside nut so it didn't spin).

Also, if you don't have an eye dropper (I thought we did, but we didn't), I took a cheap pen apart and then used the empty pen tube and inserted it into the liquid, block the top, lift the tube out and you'll have a little liquid in there. I only had to do it ~20 times, only took me 2 mins and i put it in an empty beer bottle. Worked a treat.
 

vxIICalais

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Hey,

I just bought a VX which had terrible brake shudder, so I got myself some new slotted rotors for the front, and have fitted them and new pads. The shudder has basically all gone, perhaps still a small amount coming from rear however I can hear a faint grinding noise from the front right brakes when I apply them. Any idea what would cause this ? I have done around 500kms since I changed the rotors and pads so should be bedded in fairly well by now. When I was fitting the new rotors, it seemed like the right hand side was not sitting on properly at the bottom however I assume this is because there was no wheel on there to hold it on. The wheel seemed to go on fine and push it back properly. Any ideas ?
 

Joelene

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A good quick guide. I would like to add a couple of pointers though having changed dozens of these......

This applies from VX through to VZ by the way and the VU Ute also. In fact it's virtually identical on the VEs too.

1. Only undo the bottom bolt then you can hinge the caliper up. Get a standard clothes hanger and hook it around the caliper and attach it to the suspension spring which holds it up nicely. You can also slide the caliper right out after removing just one bolt in case you want to change the disk rotor as well.
2. You will need a little shifting spanner to stop the bolt spinning around as you try to remove it with a socket. Just a hint as it will spin around and around otherwise. It's a safety feature.
3. Clean the caliper of brake dust with a small brush and either relocate the metal clips or install new ones if they come with the pads. The metal clips are actually anti squeal shims.....The genuine pads come with the anti squeal shims and one new bolt hence the need to only remove one bolt But it's cheaper to get the GMH approved AC Delco pads at your Holden dealer. They are only about $37 a front set as opposed to about $80 for genuine but they don't come with the shims or a new bolt. You can use the old ones if in good condition and use a bit of loctite on the bolt before reinstalling.
4. You should not need to remove any brake fluid unless you recently filled it to overflowing. I have never once had to remove brake fluid from the reservoir. Just take the cap off before you push the pistons back.
5. You need to push the brake pistons back into the brake body because as the pads wear so the pistons come out further but they don't go back as they sit just off the disk. A decent G clamp is required. Just make sure that you don't push the pistons back in tight into the body as they may jam and one may not push the brake pad after installation.
6. Re-install everything. Personally I wouldn't bother bedding them in. They are made smooth and doing all these things may actually damage them. Just drive it normally. They will work fine.
7. Normally there is NO NEED to machine disk rotors. If they are really badly grooved or warped then yes but otherwise forget it. I have run disk rotors for 15 years from brand new and never machined a disk.
8. But if you need to don't bother. Just go to your Holden dealer and buy two new disk rotors. They are about $100 ea and cheaper than getting your disks machined as they will do the whole brake job as well so do it yourself.
9. If you need to change the rotors you can be lucky as they are only held on by the wheel and wheel nuts but more than likely they will be rusted on.
10. Remove the caliper and pads as previously and slide the caliper right out and place it aside but don't put strain on the brake hose. Remove the TWO bolts behind the brake "bracket" and lift it off. These will be VFT Very......Tight.....so you may need a socket bar as well as a strike with a decent hammer to loosen. Then the rotor just pulls off.
BUT you may need to work your way around the disk rotor with a hammer to loosen the rust, even if you are lucky enough to have a wheel puller.
Re-install and it will be as good as new.
Front and back brakes are virtually identical to replace. same procedure.

HANDBRAKE
BEFORE you go adjusting the handbrake, firstly do the adjustment at the driver's position. Just slip the hand brake cover off and turn the screw to tighten. On VEs flick the plastic cover off near the drink holders. It has an allande key think.
If this doesn't work you can adjust the handbrake AT THE REAR DISK. If you have alloy wheels with big gaps bewteen spokes you may even leave the wheels on.
Look for a rubber bung on the face of the main body of the disk rotor. Inside is the handbrake shoe. Remove this rubber bung, grommett, whatever and with a torch shine it in and you will see a grooved wheel about the size of a screw driver blade.
Get your screwdriver and push it though the hole where the bung was and "flick" the grooved wheel. This will tighten or loosen the handbrake shoe. Repeat other wheel.
 

Sorbs

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Hi All, This is a question asked a lot, so i thought i would help out on how to change front brake pads, as mine had to be done.
I take no responsibility for any work you perform yourself. If you are not confident, Take your car to a Mechanic.

The Process is very easy, And to save some $$ Should take no more then a hour to replace them, even if its your first time, As this was my first time lol.
Hope this Guide helps out a bit.

Update:
Image shack deleted all my photos, So I have linked a much more detailed how to video by Chrisfix. Process is still very similar, And also covers Rotors, Greasing slide pins and replacing hardware.

Cheers.

I found this video helpful and with a bit of a mechanical mind, I reckon I can do my brakes and save a bit of coin, cheers mate, Sorbs.
 

Kurtly91

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How important is the metal tab that reaches across the next brake pad? It felt loose when pushing it down through the calliper window
 
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