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[VT-VX] VX front Brake pad Change How To Detailed

JRNZER

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I guessing the process would be the same for the rear pads?
 

db_notso

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when replacing your pads ESPECIALLY a commodore you should grease the two slides for the "floating" part of the caliper [the bolts on all models go through or are them they are also normally covered by rubber] just rub some lube (anything greasy) on them and this helps prevent uneven pad wear, like inners run out of meat before outers...
the slides allow the pads to retract evenly away from the braking surface only when their not sticking.
just recomend it! is one of very few faults that cause uneven pad wear.
 

vr1uz-fe

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did op check the thickness of his rotors no it seems not did he at least sand the rotors letalone machine them

and yes the slides need to be greased and the two bolts should be replaced as when they are tightened they stretch which makes them weak that is why some ppl use locktight so they only have to lightly torque them
 

markovr

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It might be just me but after I changed to the qfm pads on my vz they rattled noticeably (especially when you drove beside something that reflected back the noise like a wall) as the springs on the outboard pad didnt have enough angle(compared to the old one) to stop this happenning...had to pull them out and gently bend them to an angle similar to the old ones so they stopped the rattle...worked for me.
 

edals

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did op check the thickness of his rotors no it seems not did he at least sand the rotors letalone machine them

and yes the slides need to be greased and the two bolts should be replaced as when they are tightened they stretch which makes them weak that is why some ppl use locktight so they only have to lightly torque them
Yes did check the thickness of my rotors, they are still within spec of the Disc on, No did not machine them for the simple fact they were not glazed or grooved. Besides why pay $40 to have someone machine them when new discs are $100 new for 2 of them. Machine discs are more likely to warp cause they are thinner.
And the Sides were still very greased, if they were anymore greased oil would just go everywhere lol
As for lock tight, nup as a few mechanic mates said they dont use it, just make sure there ####ing tight witch they are.

20,000 later they are still wearing perfectly, no probs since. My brother had a Holden Mechanic do his brakes, they forgot to tighten a bleeder, then he took off and went for the brakes and of course no pressure and required the hand brake, This is why i dont trust mechanics cause they are just in a rush and dont look over things a million times.
 

soop

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Exactly, if the rotors aren't munted there's no reason to machine them (which is dodgy anyway).

I've done my own brakes multiple times and NEVER had an issue with bolts randomly snapping or coming loose.
 

kriminal

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hey i tried to just change my rear pads but i couldnt not undo that bolt. its on there bloody freakin tight. but i was just using a spanner, slipped a few times.
What size spanner or torque wrench did you use? (VY SS sedan)
 

edals

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Hey Mate,

Are you sure your trying to remove just the 2 Bolts that hold that calliper on or are you trying to remove the calliper bracket bolts behind it?
Cause just any Socket wrench will undo them, there not that tight, the Calliper bracket bolts i needed a rattle gun, even then took awhile to knock them loose lol
 

kriminal

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hey,
it was the bottom bolt on the calliper from the photo up the top. the rear brake set up is the same as the front only smaller?
i will give it a shot next sat.

your right, i was trying to remove the bolt at the back. stupid me.. o well, should be easier now next sat.

cheers
 
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