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[VZ] Two Hole Mod and MCAI

brentbrah

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the toowoomba holden dealer are trying to tell me they dont have any such thing as the MCAI?
 

mark b

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Thanks for clearing up my confusion over the mcai initials : )

Any thoughts anyone on a bent vs straight air intake pipe?

I've read that a bent pipe will receive slightly cooler air but I've also read "With a V8 engine, you gain about 1 horsepower for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit drop in temperature. Therefore, even if you could drop the incoming air 50 degrees, you gain a measly 5 horsepower. These gains are proportionately less on smaller 4 or 6 cylinder engines. "

I also read "sharp bends form a source of heavy restriction in the intake duct and thus must be avoided! It is almost always more desirable to even add another 50cm of straight length to your intake duct if it will mean avoiding a very sharp bend. To give an example, A sharp 90 degree bend in a 3" section of intake duct creates the same flow restriction as approximately 2.3 metres of straight duct! This demonstrates just how critical it is to minimise the number of bends in your cold air intake duct. Slight bends are ok, but as always straight is better if possible!"

Also, has anyone installed these CAI mods and then installed a larger throttle body?
 

mark b

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Yeah, I did. However I replaced the stock filter with a k&n hi flow filter......even before the 2 hole mod, the k&n improves the 'breathability.'
As with the mod, it's a noticeable difference, but very subtle.
 

camstatic

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Related anecdote: On the dyno the other day with my vz ss we found that doing the two hole mod without something like the MCAI to block off the engine bay heat causes the intake temps to skyrocket with the bonnet closed (may be a different story out in the open air, opening the bonnet on the dyno helped), which probably wouldn't affect performance too much in itself, but it was causing the computer to pull up to 3 degrees of timing - which was causing a loss of around 15kw at one point. So final figures were roughly 220kw with the bonnet shut and intake temps at 55c+, and 236kw with the bonnet open and an intake temp of 35c.
 

gman794

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Yeah, I did. However I replaced the stock filter with a k&n hi flow filter......even before the 2 hole mod, the k&n improves the 'breathability.'
As with the mod, it's a noticeable difference, but very subtle.
Considering the 6.0 litre V8 version of this model with the L76 motor makes 270kW with the exact same Ryco A1358 air filter that the 3.6 Alloytec takes I think it is pointless to do this.
If the stock air filter can flow enough air to produce 270kW in a 6.0 V8 than it is will definitely flow enough for a much smaller engine.
I think people are under the illusion it developed more power due to the induction noise it makes.
Cheers
gman794
 

Dotcomhunters

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I've had sooo many questions regarding the 2 Hole Mod and since I took some pics I though I would make up this thread.

What you'll need:

  • Cutting utensils (saw, dremel, hole saw, a drill)
  • Sandpaper or file
  • Philllips head screw driver (large tip)
  • Flat headed screwdriver
  • Monaro Cold Air Induction Shroud (MCAI - Holden part number 92096849)
  • 90mm diameter PVC pipe (about 5 inches will do)
  • Something to trace with (a nail will do)
  • Adhesive
  • OPTIONAL: Open flame (BBQ is best)
  • OPTIONAL: Jars of different widths
  • OPTIONAL: Spray paint

Time

About a day

Method

Step 1 - Extract the airbox


Use your flathead screw driver to take the pin out of the plastic rivets holding your radiator shroud in place and remove it. Then use your phillips head screw driver and remove the three screws holding your air box lix and pull the air box lid to the side. You can remove the lid using a spanner but I can't remember what size so I won't post it, but it makes life easier. Now remove your air filter (while your at it maybe give it a clean too!). To remove the air box give it a good pull. There's 3 rubber grommets holding it to the engine bay and a good pull will dislodge those easy. No tools required. Your restrictive 90 degree duct will come out too. Keep it in a spare parts box and forget about it.





Step 2 - Make your second hole in the air box

Get hold of your 90 mm PVC pipe and trace the outline on the front of your air box. It will need to be on the passenger side of the air box because there's no room of the drivers side where the primary hole is already. If you are afraid of operating on your own air box stop now and get a spare! Now cut the hole. You can use a dremel or hole saw or you can use a drill because the plastic is quite soft. I found an extra pair of hands "handy" at this point. I ended up using a vice, the plastic will hold its shape. Now you'll need to file it back so its smooth and round. Use your PVC pipe trial fitting as you go until it fits. I left a bit of give in mine so I could move it back and forth and so it still had a little give.









Step 3 - Modify the MCAI

This is the most tedious part. What you'll need to do now is get a hold of your MCAI and fit it back into the car with the air box. It won't fit first time due to the coolant pipe so as a start cut along the red lines shown below. After this do another trial fit and make more cuts as required. In the end your MCAI and air box should fit nice and snug so you can get your air box lid and radiator shroud back on without having to force to coolant pipe to one side or similar.

(NB The cuts for the coolant pipe were made the weekend after I did this so further pics won't show these cuts)











Step 4 - Make your second hole in the MCAI

Once your happy with how its all sitting, keep the MCAI and airbox in position and trace the outline of the new air box hole on the MCAI. Now remove the MCAI and repeat the cutting and filing process you used on the air box, so trialling with the 90 mm pipe. Once its all hunky dory, stick the MCAI and air box back in the engine bay and do a trial fit with your 90 mm pipe. It should look a little like below.





Step 5 - Cut the 90mm PVC pipe to size

At this point you can also put a flange on your pipe like I did. What I did was fire up the BBQ and using a series of jars, heated up the side of the pipe I wanted facing the incoming air and pushed it against a jar bottom and repeated this until I got the desired flange and dipped it in a buacket of cold water to set the shape. Now you need to cut your PVC pipe down to size. Basically leave a bit of clearance between your PVC pipe and the coolant pipe (about 1 cm) and at the rear of the pipe mark out the edge of the air box along the 90 mm pipe and do some more cutting :yeah:. At You can also paint your pipe black to match its surroundings.





Step 6 - Assembly

Once your spay paint has DRIED COMPLETELY (or else you end up with a mess) place your MCAI, Airbox and PVC pipe in desired position. Use an adhesive like loctite or stikaflex and spread it around the rear of the pipe, sealing the airbox. (WARNING: don't use blue loctite like I did first time. It won't set! In the end I used clear loctite and that set in moments.) Once sealed, wipe off any excess and put your air box lid back on along with your radiator shroud and away you go.







Results

First of all remember this is a cheap mod so don't expect to be Vin Diesel and blow off the competition. Once the ECU realises "hey I can breathe now!" you'll hear a bit of induction roar under WOT. It sound slike a muffled growl, best heard with the windows down. You MAY feel a slight imporvement in low down power, however as I said don't expect a surge of VTEC like power guys.

Enjoy!
Can this mod be accomplished on a v6?
 
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