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[General] Removal & Replaing internal fuel pump VL - VS sedan

FATfatboy

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This thread might be a couple of years old, but the info was invaluable to me today when I replaced the fuel pump in my VQ Stato, 5L. Of course, the old one failed at the worst possible time-just after filling the 80L tank! I was left stranded in the driveway of the servo. Luckily it started the next day & I was able to drive it home before it died again. Also lucky was the fact that my VE ute had an empty tank, so I had somewhere to put the extra fuel. The tip about attaching a couple of cable ties to the return fuel line in the tank was good too. The only pain in the arse, was jiggling the reassembled unit around to get the pump centred back in the swirl pot. My car works again.
Cheers, Mike
 

WhiteVSLion

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Attached images may assist a few of the Utility owners on this forum....





A few pointers:
- Don't bother with the special SPX tool, not required on the utility models. Return line is easily disconnected if required.
- Dismantle the fuel float, carefully. Definitely helps removal and install.
- Don't fret, ute owners have it easy on this one.Simply undo the four tank bolts and lift the tank out.
 

calaisvwagon

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Is it the same for wagons? and how do you change the pump itself
 
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iana57

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just replaced the pump on a VS wagon, made it easier seeing it in pictures etc, but getting THAT clip off the return hose was a total pain in the *rse for me!!!
just had enough clearance by pulling on it firmly, even made up my own special tool but still couldn't get the bitch off! after about 30 minutes of total frustration
I just got desperate and got a small flat blade screwdriver, jammed it in sideways and gave it a hard twist, and far out... off it comes! all easy now I thought, but no
it take a bit of patience to get the whole assembly out of the hole by feel and a lot of manoeuvring and twisting. changing the pump was pretty straitforward,
putting it back in was a bit of a mission again, and then you come to reattaching the return hose AND THAT BLOODY CLIP! three hands would help, anyway hose finally
back on and I just gave up on the clip and used a normal hose clip instead...!
all back together, bolted up firmly (not overtightened), new hoses back on and fuel back into the tank. checked for leaks etc and gave it 1st start.
started coughing and missing for about 10 seconds then evened out nice and smooth, job finally done!

my tips: make sure to mark the hoses for correct installation.
have car facing UP a slope and a bucket handy, mine was level and when bolts were loosened another 5 litres drained out.
don't stress about THAT hose clip!
from go to whoa this took me 3.5 hrs, including 2 rage breaks and coffees, if I did it again would take 1hr... this forum is invaluable, thanks to all :beer chug:
 

Baldrik

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First you'll need to drain as much fuel as possible from the tank, arm yourself with enough fuel cans to hold how ever much you have left in the tank and get a jiggler hose.
(if you're lucky and can still drive then this makes it easy, the pump i based this on was intermittent so managed to drive it till there was about 5-6L left in the tank)

If you can, drive get it up on some ramps, if you have a slightly angled driveway this is even better, try to get the car level or with the rear lower than the front.
If you can't drive... Jack it up and put it on ramps or axle stands. chock the front wheels with some bricks or 4 bits of 4x2

OK almost ready to start this.

Grab a 1.25lt coke bottle and make a short funnel and have another fuel can on stand by (or short funnel if you want to do it professionally)

If the pump was still sort of running you need to depressurize the fuel fuel system, as we're removing the pump just unplug the electrical connections at the tank.
Turn the key and wind the motor over, if it starts let it run till it stops then turn the key and wind it over for another 15-20 seconds.
Now disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Undo the pan hard rod nut on the rear axle (if you have a live axle) and move it off and rest it on the ground, this extra clearance helps when removing and installing the sender unit and i've found this method easier than jacking the body up and having the diff hang low enough (only 1 end needs to be undone).




Now you can undo the output fuel hose from the sender unit and hopefully there's no pressure and it won't spray fuel everywhere (safety glasses may be wise here).



Now grab the spare fuel can and "funnel" and sit it under basically level with the sender unit and undo the bottom 2 7mm bolts
If you haven't drained enough fuel from the tank it should start coming out the now open bolt holes... let it drain and try to catch it.

Now undo the other 5 bolts. (pay attention to the angle of outlet pipe and which 2 bolt holes line up at the bottom)



Move the sender unit around and rotate so the outlet is pointing up.



When you get it far enough out you'll most likely have the sender float catching on the hole, move it around and line it up so it comes out (you can flex the rod slightly).






Once it's out dismantle the old unit, remove the old sock filter, pay attention to which way this faces compared to the assembly (may need to pry this off carefully with a flat blade screw driver)

Unplug the power wires.

Some have a hose & clamps that need to be undone, others will be like the pic below where you push the oval shaped metal joiner away from the pump and up the pipe.

Once it's off replace the cork gasket.

Installation is in reverse order of removal.



Now put it all back in the tank.



Once you have the sender in upto the blue line move it around so that it is lining up with the bolt holes and the pump and sock filter are in the swirl pot you'll feel this and once in the correct placement can't be rotated clockwise/anticlockwise very far (a torch and a mirror can be useful to see inside the tank if you have 3 hands).

Install the 7 screws and start doing it up in a star pattern to ensure it is pulled to the tank level, when doing a cork gasket up watch the edges and when you see the gasket deforming and bulging out back the bolt off a small amount.



Plug up all the wire and hose and reinstall the pan hard rod.

Put some fuel in the tank (don't fill it completely, 10-15L is enough) and start the car.
Let it run for a bit and check for any fuel leaks.

If there is some signs of leaking turn the car off and tighten up the suspect area's (hose clamp or if it's the bolts just slightly so you don't distort and crack the cork gasket)
Repeat the test run and check for leaks again.




addition for VR-VS

View attachment 136536View attachment 136535

When removing the sender unit from the tank, remove it partially and use the shown tool or something similar to undo the clip holding the return line in the tank.
Tie some string to the plastic return line so it won't disappear back into the tank.
When reinstalling the unit back into a VR/VS make sure you don't mix the fuel lines up as this will stop the fuel from getting to your engine.
Gidday from wa. Happy xmas mate. My vs wagon stopped halfway to BIG smoke. I diagnosed fuel pump. A terific resident from wagin gave me an electric fuel pump to fit just to get batsy home.can i hot wire it as there is no power to it. Fuses ok relay ok. Can i splice it in some where to get me home as its silly season and cannot tow truk/tilttray. Urgent help needed. 0427075658. Cheers from the baldrik fambly hohoho.....
 

Brandi_vs

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Thread dig I know but didnt wanna make a new thread, my fuel pump in the vr went the other day, put a working one in from another car now its blowen to, is this just a case of bad luck, or is something blowing out the fuel pump? cheers
Same thing is wrong with my vs. have you fixed this yet?
 
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