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[General] Match your original key to a replacement ignition lock for VN VR VT VX

Jxfwsf

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Quick tutorial about re-keying an ignition lock, <u>you must have the key to suit the barrel to do this</u>.
The same can be done with door, glove box and other locks. (glove box is a bit fiddley though)
A large clean working area is an idea in case one of the spring loaded bits gets lose.

Have bought cars in the past that had different keys to suit doors and ignition, this really annoys me for some reason.
If you have a VN-VX (possibly newer models but i haven't had to do this on any of them yet) that have suffered from an ignition lock failure and you need to change the lock but would like to retain your original key then read on.

Put the key in the barrel and turn it to the position pictured below, carefully depress the <b>spring loaded</b> stopper and turn the barrel some more until it passes the latch <b>keep your thumb over the gap</b> otherwise you'll be searching for this as it flies out.

01.jpg


02.jpg


Remove the guts, it'll pull straight out.

03.jpg


Top is a damaged vx lock, fairly common problem where they break, now you can see all the tumblers, each one has a number stamped into it and is spring loaded, don't just pull them all out at once or you'll be there for quite some time guessing and matching a key again.
You can see they're offset, draw a diagram and remove them 1 at a time and write down where it was located so you can duplicate the old key in the new lock.

When you have it all apart is a perfect time to clean off all the old grease which can cause everything to stick, with a worn key and wafers this can leave the barrel in an unlocked state, replace with some fresh light grease or graphite as it won't collect dust and gunk.

04.jpg


Push the key into the barrel and check for alignment, you may need to depress all the tumblers slightly to get the key to go in
2 tumblers are mixed up in this pic and can be seen sticking out, they all need to be flush otherwise you won't be able to turn the key once all back together.

05.jpg


When you're happy with the end result it's time to put it back together, push it in until the spring loaded bit in the top pic is flush with the outer housing.

06.jpg


Grab a small screw driver and push it down and push the barrel the rest of the way in.

08.jpg


Make sure the barrel turns smoothly without catching, if you can't turn it then a tumbler or 3 may be slightly out.

09.jpg
10.jpg


Put the first piece you removed back in and push down, turn the barrel to lock it in place, <b>as above be careful</b> the little bugger does fly quite a distance if you slip,.

11.jpg

12.jpg


Remove the key and make sure you can easily pop the inner barrel out to the locked position (the spring visible does this when in the steering column) , use the lock a few times to make sure it's in proper working condition.

13.jpg
 
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bj42turbo

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Very good right up, As a Lockie with 27 years experiance, the only thing I could add would be that I would always use new wafers and most likely use a new cylinder for how little they cost....
Also a tip, the wafer numbers are always odd even odd etc so if you have to put 2 odds together or 2 evens together chances are a new key to CODE would be required..
Lastly always a good idea to put a dab of light grease on the pin at the back of the cylinder..


Dazz
 

Jxfwsf

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never thought about using new wafers, silly me.... i've got quite a collection of worn ones and have found in the past i can mix and match incorrect worn values to perfectly match a worn key (not the best practice but it's worked for me on a car or 2 when the barrel starts to take a bit to move from locked position)
 

ephect

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Thank you for this how-to, did this today after the end of the barrel snapped and almost left me stranded.

:thumbsup:
 

Geek2.0

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*Bookmarked* Its likely ill have to this soon, and the write up should help heaps, thankyou :D
On another note, where did you manage to get a commodore key with a metal head? my plastic ones are all falling apart :L
 

Super_Low 91

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For security purposes i would always use a new barrel with new wafers but in a pinch this is a great idea.
 

Jxfwsf

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the key is just a copy from a locksmith, it came with the barrel set i'd purchased.
 

Jxfwsf

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Update time. Metal key for earlier models is silca hu43.
Couple of years later and the key has started to fail so was time to get a new one cut... a few locksmiths couldn't decipher it to make a copy.

01_zps1c4d5964.jpg


Got a new key cut to code but it didn't work (it did but had to wiggle the key repeatedly)...
Self explanatory, easier method for removing the spring loaded pin.
02_zpse9d9f95e.jpg
03_zps9dc9aaf2.jpg


04_zps2b5185a3.jpg

Once pin is removed turn the entire lock 180 degrees before removing the guts
The latch that is responsible for locking the cylinder out when the key is removed is spring loaded, best to face upwards so it doesn't fall out and get lost.
06_zps21c1430a.jpg


The new key is not disengaging the tumblers correctly.
05_zpsdff98f9f.jpg


As above there is a specific order to the numbers. Even numbers one side, odd numbers the other, closest to the ignition switch end is Even, write them down.
e e e e e
-o o o o o
07_zps416c57db.jpg


Check everything for wear and damage.
07A_zps7d23e1c4.jpg

Right is a new wafer, the grooves you can see are a security design, there are matching grooves in the lock casing that these catch on to make it harder to pick the lock.
Best to make sure they key is fully inserted before turning to try avoid wearing them out.

08_zpsed09a617.jpg

10_zps67611977.jpg

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How a new housing should look.
15_zps5e05e0a2.jpg

Don't use grease, graphite is best for the job of lubricating.
18_zps8a9e3675.jpg


Lastly, the spring that pushes the cylinder back out is smaller 1 end, it must be installed so it springs back freely.
20_zpsfdafc146.jpg

21_zps496a7562.jpg

22_zps6058e7c9.jpg




Other problems and their causes:
12_zpse42b47d5.jpg


Key won't move from Lock position when first installed, once unlocked moves freely from Lock to Start and back again without any problem until key is removed. There will be a ridge worn along the Yellow line stopping the pin from moving up the ramp locking the cylinder in place.

Key jams in Lock position after turning the car off and wont move until the key has been removed, cylinder pops out and key is put back in again. A ridge is worn along the Green line, visible in pic above with "9934" stamped in it (actually worn through and cracked to the left of the groove)

Cylinder doesn't pop out once key is removed. Red this time.

1 or more problems may be present with a combination of the above problems.

A simple trick if your issue is the first, slide something in the bottom to disable the cylinder locking mech (thin piece of plastic or metal will work) can be done in the car but removal of the keyfob ring will be required in later models.
Push cylinder in and hold there, remove plastic/metal and insert the key and it should now turn and make removal possible (if it won't turn easy try tapping the outer housing lightly while turning the key)
23_zps0601078e.jpg
24_zpsf3e7311d.jpg
 
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VPRob

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just added a like for this cos it's gold! Great write-up and pics
 

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Excellent write up & pics :) If you have a set of feeler gauges and your barrel is jammed , use about a 10 thou and slide it down inbetween the barrel and housing at the point wear the pin up the ramp is jamming ,GIVING IT A WIGGLE :) . Or call RACQ or NRMA and that's how they get you going !!!!! Then get it fixed .
 
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