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How To - VT Brake Upgrade

gslrallysport

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Straight from the Brembo website:
Which direction should the discs rotate?
It is a popular misconception that the slots or drillings in a disc determine the direction of rotation. In truth, for an internally vented disc, the geometry of the vanes dictates the direction of rotation. There are three vane types in use:

* Straight
* Pillar vane (comprised of many small posts)
* Curved vane

The first two vane types are non-directional, and can be used on either side of the vehicle. The curved vane disc, however, is directional. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Please see figure. Orienting the disc in the manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc's ability to dissipate heat.

Additionally, all of Brembo's slotted discs are directional as well, regardless of the vane geometry. The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first.
In other words Brembo slotted discs are installed in what you guys would call backwards, regardless of the internal veins...
 

bad_habits81

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just like to make a note, if anyone has a problem with brake shudder, it might come down to the fact that you need finely machined spacers which need to go between hub and rotor,it is to make sure the rotor is set dead in the right spot, if you dont use it you might find it'll be right to start with but will soon start to shudder and cause dammage to bearings and hubs, wear tyres and put extra pressure on wheel studs.... you can find these spacers on ebay, round $40 plus postage, but in the long run will be far cheaper and beneficial
 

Adza75

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I have just completed this brake upgrade and can say it's a big improvement. I also converted my VR to a VT master cylinder and booster.

However one question... I used braided brake lines on the front, but as you can see in the pics in the original photo, the lines behind the front wheels no longer go through a bracket, so effectively just hang there.

Is this a problem? Should they be secured somehow? And is it a problem for rego?
 

vsiicalais

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I have just completed this brake upgrade and can say it's a big improvement. I also converted my VR to a VT master cylinder and booster.

However one question... I used braided brake lines on the front, but as you can see in the pics in the original photo, the lines behind the front wheels no longer go through a bracket, so effectively just hang there.

Is this a problem? Should they be secured somehow? And is it a problem for rego?

I hadnt secured them into the brackets when i took the photos but have since zip tied them to there, it hasnt been a problem for me. For roadworthy it could possibly be an issue but im not too stressed about it. if it is an issue then i will fix it properly. altho i am not planning on having to put the car thru a roadworthy if possible. I know my front end is stuffed, quoted $1500- in parts alone to fix it and cant afford it atm. So that wouldnt pass which means i would just scrap the car for parts.

Also are you able to do a write up on what is needed and how you did the booster/master cylinder upgrade that you could post as a seperate How to as i want to upgrade mine but havent been able to get the info i need. Thanks mate
 

jimmig81

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Thanks mate got all the **** off a wrecked WH gonna do this to my inlaws VS stata
 

holdenrocks

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How To - VT Brake Upgrade

N.B. I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for damage done to your vehicle if you follow this guide and it does not work, I didnt have a problem tho!

Tools and Parts Required
(pic 1)

Instructions:

1. Make sure you have all the tools and parts you are going to require for this job.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly
3. Jack the car up and support of jack stands.
4. Remove the wheel (pic 2)
5. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the caliper (pic 3)
6. Clamp the brake line near the body of the vehicle to reduce fluid loss (pic 4)
7. Loosen the bleeder on the rear of the caliper enough to allow fluid to come out. (pic 5)
8. Twist the brake line about 90 degrees and push towards the engine bay to remove (pic 6)
9. Remove the caliper from the disc (pic 7)
10. Grab the new brake line and clamp that one as well (pic 8)
11. Undo the existing brake line from the vehicle and remove (pic 9)
12. Replace the brake line with the new one and place it back in the clip on the strut (pic 10)
13. Remove the old disc from the vehicle (this may take a while and may require a rubber mallet or a hammer if you are disposing of the old discs) (pic 11)
14. Remove the guard from behind the hub as the VT caliper will not fit with it still in place (you could replace this but I will do so later on) (pic 12)
15. Place new disc on to the hub and push it on as far as you can. (pic 13)
16. Place new pads into the VT caliper ensuring the pistons are fully retracted. (pic 14)
17. Fit the VT caliper to the disc make sure the bleed nipple is at the top and ensure you tighten the two bolts on the back (pic 15)
18. Fit the brake line onto the caliper and tighten (pic 16)
19. Undo the bleeder and remove the brake line clamp to allow fluid to come through. (pic 17)
20. Bleed the entire brake system ensuring the reservour is kept full.
21. Replace the wheel and place vehicle back onto the ground
22. Enjoy the new stopping power!

between 13 to 15, need to add, remove whole the hub and remove the wheel bearing the same time so u can remove the guard more easy..
as i was trying to work out and found it more easy way.. i hope this will help all of you? cheers
 

vxcalais_01

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When doing this on older cars from VK onward, does the master cylinder and brake booster need upgrading as well ?
 

jashdown91

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Makes a big difference to the cooling of the rotors on which way the veins are facing, NOT the slots, the slots have nothing to do with cooling. It has NOTHING to do with "personal preference " at all. And VrWagz1, i would think it would be pretty bloody important to get that right, or at least to mention it.

I am sure it has helped a lot of people, but makes me wonder how many rotors ARE being installed incorrectly.The MAIN part of installing ANY new rotor has been left out completely. Not all manufacturers make the veins face the same way, so it is very individual to the rotor branding too.
well if you cant make them face the right way then why would you do a brake swap? deerrrr. obviously you wouldnt be doing the upgrade yourself if you couldnt face the rotors the right way.
 

sedate looking

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well if you cant make them face the right way then why would you do a brake swap? deerrrr. obviously you wouldnt be doing the upgrade yourself if you couldnt face the rotors the right way.
Well clearly it was NOT included in the first post you ***ing peanut...DEEERRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

robbbbo666

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thanks mate massive help
 
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