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[VT-VX] How To Change Trans Fluid (PIC HEAVY)

aussieakito

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Hello forum,
Once again I have made a new How To, Partly because I'm bored, Partly because I like being helpful.

Ok so if you have looked at your transmission fluid on the dipstick and it looks a little dark then it's probably time to change it.
According to my manual it says this should be done once a year.

I was quoted by a mechanic $160 to get my transmission serviced but i managed to get all the parts from Supercheap Auto for just 70 bucks therefore saving myself around $90. :boxing:

So this is what you are going to need from the store.



- 5 Litres of any Dex III Auto Trans Fluid
- A funnel (if you don't already have one, The fairies hid mine from me so I bought a new one.)
- As for the filter kit, you can either get the Ryco RTK2 kit, which is what I was after but as Supercheap Auto nor Repco had it I bought this Transgold kit from Supercheap.

The kit includes,
- Filter
- Gasket
- filter seal



Ok so first you need to jack up your car, making sure that you are on flat ground first.

If your car is too low to fit a jack under its a good idea to drive onto some wood planks first so you can fit the jack under.



Jack up the rear of the car from the diff.



Then place the jack stands like so



Now jack up the front from here



And place the jack stands in the appropriate position.

I placed the jack back under the diff as I didn't trust the stands I used on the rear. I have seen them crack before.



These ones are much more solid.



OK! That's enough of he basics. :blah blah:

Once the car is nice and safe get under and start undoing the 13mm bolts surrounding the entire Trans pan.
I took out the front ones first, then the 2 sides leaving the rear ones in while the pan drains a little

HINT: wear safety glasses now as you are about to get covered in trans fluid

This is the trans pan



This is how dirty mine was. :embarrass:


Once you have drained the pan clean it out with some old rags.
Cover it in degreaser and keep scrubbing.
Make sure you take the little black magnet out and give that a nice clean.
Once you are satisfied rinse it off and allow it to dry.

If you're doing it as good as me it should look like new.



And here is what it looks like under there with the pan off.


[Note: The filter has already been removed in this photo

While your pan is drying replace the filter, it simply pulls out.
There is the seal right on the other side. It can be a real pain to remove. I used a little hook tool to pull it out.

Comparison of new and old filter.



Shove the new seal in and the new filter in also.
Make sure the filter 'pops' in correctly. I found it can take quite a lot of force to do this.

Filter in



Now if your pan has dried put the gasket on it. If your gasket had come in a small box like mine did it is a good idea to put it under a heavy book for a while so it sits right when you put it on the pan.



Now lift the pan back into place and start putting the bolts back in, making sure the gasket stays seated correctly.
Don't tighten the bolts up to much or you will wreck the gasket. Just hand tight and then a bit more.

Now put 4L of the Fluid into the same place you check the trans fluid.
Here



Once the 4 L is in drop the car back onto the ground.
Do a quick check with the dipstick to see if there is at least some fluid on he stick.
Start the car IN NEUTRAL, making sure the handbrake is on. Now check the fluid again as it will have dropped, you should need to put another Litre in ( 5 Litres total ) Once its on the cold mark on the dipstick take the car for a drive to warm it up.
Check that the lvl is in the HOT section of the stick when the engine is indeed hot.

I had to add another Litre and a half as Mine was leaking prior changing as the gasket was screwed.
This is also the reason I didn't drain the fluid out through the Trans cooler.
Otherwise there is other methods for getting all the fluid out.

But this is an adequate way to do it at home and save yourself around 90 bucks.

The car feels much smoother throughout the gear changes now :)






 
Last edited:

Jecs

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gave you rep points for giving something a go.

but your dads face.... tsk tsk
 

50LTRv8

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It is stuff like this that makes the site so worthwhile.
 

Wombles

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Forgot how to rep...
Great how to Aussie. Well done.
Why the block of wood on the diff/engine brace? Shouldnt really need it but to each to their own.
 

aussieakito

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I noticed when I didn't have the block it would scratch. With the wood there it no longer scratches.

Rep is the star bottom left of post :p
 

Wombles

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Obviously I dont care. Out of sight out of mind. :p
 

GothicKidd

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You made it look so clean and easy...
Last time I did it, Oil everywhere and towels full of oil.. /notfun.

Nice how-to :)
 

Bezzey

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I just realised after typing all of this that the sump rail on the gearbox doesnt have bolt holes that go through all the way but I think some people could still use this advice.

Can I just suggest when putting the gasket on if it is curled up of not cooperating, you can use zip ties & thread them through a hole on each side/corner of the pan making sure to thread the tail through the zip tie head backwards if you like to conserve supplies. Only do the zip ties up so you can still fit 2 fingers through the loop to pull it loose once you've got a bolt in each corner which makes sure the gasket is lined up. This is what I & most of the guys at work do with our Cummins engines when installing a sump.
 

aussieakito

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You made it look so clean and easy...
Last time I did it, Oil everywhere and towels full of oil.. /notfun.

Nice how-to :)
Thanks :)

It wasn't the cleanest job but if you take your time you can minimize the spillage.


I just realised after typing all of this that the sump rail on the gearbox doesnt have bolt holes that go through all the way but I think some people could still use this advice.

Can I just suggest when putting the gasket on if it is curled up of not cooperating, you can use zip ties & thread them through a hole on each side/corner of the pan making sure to thread the tail through the zip tie head backwards if you like to conserve supplies. Only do the zip ties up so you can still fit 2 fingers through the loop to pull it loose once you've got a bolt in each corner which makes sure the gasket is lined up. This is what I & most of the guys at work do with our Cummins engines when installing a sump.
I'm not sure if that would make it any easier, I think it would actually be more fidgety.

If you're really having trouble you could but some gasket adhesive in each corner.

Technically you should be doing the bolts up from the middle not the corners to prevent the gasket from folding over its self.
 
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