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Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by Super Coach, Jan 20, 2017.
HG Model ??
HT 1969 model.
Cool it is beautiful, you are a very lucky man.
The short trips promote premature engine wear and exhaust system corrosion. I recommend longer trips (10 miles or more), fuel stabilizer (chuck it in the tank before storage - today's petrol deteriorates WAY more quickly than the pre-2006 stuff), change the brake fluid just prior to storage, spray the brake parts with the right spray lubricant prior to storage, and of course, disconnect the battery. I've driven 'em, without issues, over ten years post-storage....my record was an old Austin...32 years!
I suspect you're right. Anyone who is convinced to have their rockers changed despite no actual symptoms probably needs to be conned for the education that would provide.
Love 'em both. My old Pa had an HK Brougham 307, turquoise with black roof, always loved that car. Unfortunately,he sold it in '71.
I didn’t mean you warm up your car and take it for a drive around the block when talking of a short trip, I meant 50 odd miles or so as I don’t consider 10 is even enough to get residual heat well and truly soaked into everything.
A long trip to me is anything over a hundred miles plus like having a day out with the car and I don’t recommend it as being the best way if you are only going to do it a couple of times a year.
Driving it regularly like every few weeks is your best bet or be prepared to pay for deterioration.
I live by the ocean which also introduces a lot of problems as everything metal around my home inside the garage and out has rust over it.
The chrome bumpers on my XY after just a year of neglect are covered with surface rush that won’t polish out and will need to be re-plated and much of the bright work trim will require a machine polish.
Most of my cars are stored out on the farm in far North West NSW which is hot and dry and far better for them than at my home on the coast.
I’ve been storing cars for over 30 years and almost all get driven regularly and if the batteries are healthy to start with I don’t even bother to disconnect them or use trickle chargers as they’ll start first kick as long as there is fuel in the system.
With the old school pre-injection cars I manually fill the fuel bowls before I start them to make sure I don’t damage the power valves in the carbies and do a lot of little checks before I turn the key.
You may get away with not driving your Austin for 32 years without issue but the unregistered cars I have that are not driven which hopefully will start when needed will most definitely need seals and such replaced before any serious miles are considered and none of them have batteries fitted and the coolant systems are empty with the hoses removed and the fuel has been removed.
This is done in the hope that all the original parts will be in a refurbishable condition and not need to be replaced with new copy parts.
I have been told by a number of old timers who store old vehicles long term to swap out the brake fluid for Dot 5 as the system will last much longer but the amount of work involved to swap it doesn’t appeal to me and I’m prepared to rectify any problems I have with those cars when the time comes as it will not take me any more effort to refurbish as it does to swap to Dot 5 and I will also know that the brake system is safe at the time it is prepared for roadwork again.
My XY was a car I would drive numerous times a week, I would just as likely hop into it to run up to the shops as I would with any of my others cars and because I did a shuffle in the last year or so and a couple of other cars have tickled my interest I unwittingly allowed it to sit for 12 months without making any provision for leaving it standing.
It failed simply because the fuel system dried out and the rubber components in the fuel pump and carbie perished, both the front and rear accelerator pump diaphragms had holes in them and a rear brake line perished and when a problem like that occurs everything is checked and replaced as far as I’m concerned or none of my family are allowed in the car.
Storing cars can be easy and it can be hard as it can depend on your environment, the type of vehicle and your resources.
I try to cover all my bases with my own cars but I’m just pointing out a failure I had this month with a car I intended to be driving a few times a week but let it sit for 12 months as a warning that low mileage cars will in most cases need work to get them back up to scratch and if the owners think a long run a couple of times of year will do the job then they find they’ll have failures from the air con compressors to the fuel system as the cars are designed to be driven and not left standing.
You've had better luck than me with batteries - I have 'em goin' flat within weeks, even on EFI cars from the '90s - I've learned to disconnect them, but even then many of them fade away. Thank God for the super starter pack (cost $400).
Regarding pre-filling the fuel bowls, I avoid this on purpose so that the initial cranking of the engine goes for 10-20 seconds to pre-oil the engine prior to starting, a proven wear reducer. By the way, I've never heard of power valves being harmed by dry cranking, nor can I understand how that can happen.
Anyway, I suspect that most of this is irrelevant for storing 2017 Commodores, except their batteries...and that unleaded stuff.
However, good to know there are other tragics out there with a pile of old cars they cogitate over.
Finally saw my first Motorsport on the road, bit ironic really, saw it yesterday, almost brought a tear to my eye, arguably Australia’s best car on the day of its extinction.
Saw a Spitfire Green Motorsport in Wagga last week, great cars these and honoured to have one.
Probably mine. Although there are two Spitfires in Wagga.
In the Wagga BC? Have to arrange a local get together of LE's, know of two Spitfire Magnums from around here both got after the ballot.
I don’t have a lot of problems with batteries but I do spend the money to make sure I have good ones and with the old cars it doesn’t really make much difference if they are connected or not as they will kick without too much trouble even when left standing for 6 to 12 months.
Most of my cars will get a good run much more often than that so no real problems ever pop up.
If the car is off the road for a long time then I’ll completely remove them so as no leakages can occur.
It’s a different matter for the newer cars, I have a VS Clubsport that eats batteries every year and the local supplier won’t give me warranty because he knows I don’t drive the vehicles.
I have a VZ that sits next to it and it doesn’t have a problem with them at all, it’s one of those little wonders that I’ll never know the reason why.
Even though modern cars don’t ever go fully to sleep the advice I been given is you are better to keep them connected and let them slowly discharge and take the car for a decent run every so often to recharge them then to completely disconnect them.
I also have a trickle charger and a jump starter if I need them.
I find I have more problems with batteries in modern cars that I drive for short distances around town with a lot of stop and starting than I do with cars sitting around doing nothing for long periods.
It’s Holley that recommends the bowls be filled before the car is started otherwise they say it can damage the power valves.
I don’t know what sort of damage they mean as I’ve never had a problem with one other than some of them starting to click with age or because they’ve been left sitting for a long period.
They recommend you disconnect the coil and crank the engine to pump the fuel up that way before starting.
I prefer instead to fill the bowls manually because fuel starts losing its octane after 6 weeks or so and if it has been sitting for a long long time then I want the bowls to be filled with fresh fuel and not sucking up stale stuff that’s been sitting in the lines.
I do a lot of pre-checks on really old engines or ones that have been sitting for some time from coolant, oil, fuel, belts and ignition before starting and that’s why I remove a lot of that stuff when I store a car long term as it’s easier to check them as I refit them and they will last longer packed away..
I 100% agree you need to prelube before starting the engine.
I’m a bit old school about it and do what my father taught me and drop the old oil and filter and replace them then feed a little oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes and crank it over manually with a breaker bar.
It’s also a good idea to then prime the oil pump via the distributor and check to see if it pumps up through the heads.
Then after the fuel and everything else is sorted I kick it in life straight away and listen in case I need to shut it down instantly as there is nothing worse than hearing the top of a piston come off.
Everyone has their own ways and ideas on how to start them, I do what my old man and a few mates have taught me over the years and I have learnt it’s always going to be a lottery on how an engine will react after not being started for a long time.
Some dinosaurs will start easy and go on to have a happy life and some that have only been in hibernation for a few years will need a rebuild and all you can do is your best to make the initial start less damaging but it’ll always end up being the luck of the draw.
With the newer cars their mechanical components will suffer like the old school do, where I tend to differ with them is I believe because of all the tech built into them they need to have the batteries connected and be run regularly and I guess if I’m around in another 20 years or so I’ll know from some of my own cars and what I hear from other owners if that is true or not.
Mercedes told me a few years back that I was killing my C63 by not driving it enough (about 300km a year) so I now drive it several times a week instead of once every few months and I take it on a few hours drive to Sydney and back every month or so.
Here’s a photo of the mess in the front bowl of my double pumper, I’m almost a shame to show it.
The secondary bowl didn’t suffer anything like as bad as the primary.
The accelerator pump diaphragms were hard, brittle and torn.
Yes, in Wagga.Yeah I'd be keen to meet up. For sure. I know one of the blokes with a spitfire Magnum. His Dad has a white Director too. I know another spitfire MSE owner too.
A cruise in a few weeks could be good?
I just came back from 3 days in Torquay and it was 28c to 30c down there. Windows all down, sport mode and let it rip a few times through second to third...now that sound is just fantastic, so get the windows down and the sunroof open and try it guys...I'm in love!!! All my drives have been in cooler weather and this was the first run with everything open. Oh, and are we Melbourne owners ever getting together to cruise, chat, take pics and grab a coffee, I said I was up for it?
Finally collect it on Wednesday, what a battle with the bank, it's a shame I am not a money launderer or it would have been over ages ago.
One of the Magnum owners is going to Cooma for a meet on the 4th of Nov. He said that he would be in any cruise with a counter lunch in the middle. Did mention Morundah Pub, has good meals and is not that far away. Could go through Lockhart Urana then back through Narradera GGGM and Coolamon.
Sounds like a plan. I think that date is ok too.
FYI, announced today, all Director owners will be getting the 7 year warranty, as a goodwill offer due to the stuff up with the chrome/black door mould fiasco.
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