After countless hours of searching through the forums and getting a better idea/gathering information on how to convert my commodore over to electric windows from manual winders. I found a couple of things that were helpful but kept finding the same annoyance, old threads that didn't make make much sense and comments like "it's pretty straight forward". I have decided to make my own updated post with as much information as I can give. I don't have photos at the moment but will try and get around to uploading some. **Disclaimer** This is not a regulator swap, this is a door swap. This will take several hours, set your day aside so you don't run out of time. Bring a partner, these doors are heavy don't break your self. My acclaim already had the looms for the main switch which means the wires were already in the door looms. I suggest you check under your piece of trim where the master switch goes to see if the loom is there. **Tools & required pieces** Phillips head screw driver. Socket spanner with 8mm attachment. Hammer Crescent adjustable wrench or pin removal tool. A partner (please you can't do this alone). 4 doors, trim or no trim, mirrors or no mirrors. Your choice. I will not go over how to swap mirrors or remove trim as there are some updated forums on this. Mid - High level BCM. I didn't have this, I ended up bypassing my BCM, I will go over this in the how-to. Master switches for centre console. 30 - 40cm of wire. Solder iron, solder & heat shrink or you can use electrical tape and do a ghetto job. 20A fuse, 2 correct relays (look at the fuse box under the steering wheel). **How-to** Start off with the front doors, the doors are heavy. Have your friend ready. Open the door as far as you can and have your friend hold it open, unbolt the hinges on the car side, there are two 8mm bolts, grab your socket and go for it. Don't lose the bolts please! Now the door pins. These are tricky if you don't have a pin removal tool. I didn't and life sucked. With the removal tool, just put it around the head of the pin and knock it out. This is where the adjustable wrench comes into play, put it around the body of the pin and tighten the wrench to it. Grab your hammer and smack it in the direction to where it will push the pin up with the top of the wrench, this will get it out halfway and then you will need to smack the wrench from the other side to pull the pin out. As soon as one pin is out, the door will give way, this is why you need a friend to hold it up so it doesn't bend anything, watch the door loom! Pull the loom towards you and it'll pop out and then you can unplug it. Do this for the bottom pin as well, once the door is off, hammer the pin back into the hinge but not all the way, only 1 part of the hinge so you can put the door back on. Do this for both pins. Grab your new door, your friend will have to hold the door in the open position and push it into the hinges, once it's lined up knock the pins back in and then bolt the hinge on last. You'll have to make sure everything lines up. Plug the loom back in and push it back into place. The passenger front door is exactly the same as the drivers door so follow the above steps. The rear doors are identical except for 1 thing. The back doors are nearly the same, except there is a little baby pin on the middle hinge you can smack this out with a hammer you don't need a socket, make sure you put this pin back when you're done! Fit your new centre trim and your new switches. There are two screws that hold the centre trim in right next to the cigarette lighter socket, take these out then pull it back, and put your new centre trim on. Plug in your master switch and fit it to the centre trim. Under the steering wheel in the fuse box you will need to fit a 20A fuse for power windows, a power window relay up top, and underneath that a driver's side window relay. Follow the fuse box diagram and match. **BYPASSING THE BCM**I wasted money and bought a High BCM & Linked ECU from a Calais, and my body loom plugs didnt fit the ECU, so I got desperate. A lot of reading I couldn't find much, But found a comment on a thread saying to join GREEN/BLACK to GREEN/ORANGE. I took a swing in the dark and it worked. **PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU WILL NOT HAVE THE AUTO UP/AUTO DOWN FUNCTION. I THINK ITS ANNOYING ANYWAY SO I DIDNT MIND** To bypass the BCM so the drivers side window will work, you will need to take the door seals off on the drivers side, cut back the electrical tape to expose the wires in the loom and find the GREEN/BLACK wire. Cut it and expose an inch of wire. Tin it (Tinning is the practice of applying solder to a piece of wire so it's easier/more efficient to join to another wire). Take the kick panel off on the drivers side, and the piece of triangular plastic trim that's on the side of the dash, it's held in by 3 screws and unplug the door loom but grab the plug that plugs into the door, not the one that's connected to the door. Cut back the electrical tape to expose the wires and find the GREEN/ORANGE wire, go about 2 - 3 inches down and cut it. Expose an inch of the wire and tin it. Grab your piece of wire, solder one end to the GREEN/BLACK wire and run it into the door seal loom. Make it look neat please. Run it from the door seal, up to the kick panel, behind the BCM and to the plug. Trim the excess wire. Solder the last end to the GREEN/ORANGE wire. Test the switch it will work. If not you have done it wrong. And soldered it to the plug that comes from the BCM, which means the door is still going through the BCM, picture it in your head, it will make sense. Tape the loom back up and make it look factory. Put everything back the way it came out. Congratulations, you're done. **ANOTHER NOTE.** If you have a low BCM and don't bypass it, the drivers window will not work. Your passenger side window will work though, don't freak out, just bypass it. If you don't have electric windows switches on the back doors they WILL NOT WORK AT ALL. THEY REQUIRE SWITCHES ON THEM TO WORK, EVEN WHEN USING THE MASTER SWITCH.