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Climate Control - Air Mix Door

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by Nuskvlct, Sep 12, 2016.

  1. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    I've got a problem with my heater only producing warm air- Heater core has been changed recently, and heater tap seems to work (Heater core and brass pipes get hot)

    I've got a feeling my Air mix door is faulty/broken, not closing correctly.

    With the car at operating temp and the brass pipes on the heater core hot. I have removed the Air Mix motor and operated the flap via the cog to full open and closed. full closed delivers cool are, and full open delivers warm. But I can't seem to get Hot air.

    Is there any way to physically view this part without removal of the entire dash. Or is it a whole dash out, and open the heater box to find out?
     
  2. rambunctious

    rambunctious Well-Known Member

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    Forget the heater box or dash out.
    The heater core is above the radiator and my guess is you have an air lock which means very little coolant going through the heater core, so remove the radiator cap and give it a few good revs to blow the air out.
     
  3. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    I'll give it a go, but I really don't like the chances of this fixing it. as I said the Brass pipes and Core itself is getting hot as it is.
     
  4. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    Just gave the above a go, but no good.

    While stuffing around with it, I noticed I can feel some cold (air cond) air blowing out from where the heater core slides into. So I'm guessing there is a crack or broken bit in the heater box where the heater core fits, and thats allowing cold air in and mixing with the hot.

    any ideas ??
     
  5. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    I think what I will do over the next few days is. take out the heater core (I used the cut/hose method).

    From there I should be able to see if the Mix Door is closing correctly. I will also make sure the heater core has foam around all its edges (as I really can't remember if it did when I installed it)

    Will let you know how it goes.
     
  6. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    Ok I have just managed to pull the heater core out and have a look inside the hole where it fits.
    [​IMG]

    I turned on the fan with the heater core out and it blew out a lot of this crap (I have no idea what it is) Pic
    [​IMG]

    I then stuck my hand in to have a feel around and noticed this peice of plastic just sitting in there not attached to anything (pic) Which I have no idea where it goes.
    The air mix door flap doesnt seem to be closing 100% on one of the edges when the controls are on hot (I can fit a finger between the flap and the plastic.)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    What should I do from here? Go to the wreckers and rip a heater box out of the a car there, then put in mine? (can do this over mulitple weekends)

    or take mine apart completely first and try to fix it.
     
  7. mickVS84

    mickVS84 Member

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    Off memory that plastic thing is supposed to sit inside of it in a grove so it doesn't fall out. That other stuff is insulation. Best bet is to get another heater unit. I pulled apart 1 once and just real fiddly to get back together, trust me.
     
  8. Nuskvlct

    Nuskvlct New Member

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    You're correct that plastic bit, does fit in a groove.

    I managed to get it back into place. After a good hour of trying. But now I have a working heater again. This piece of plastic helps seperate the hot and cold, and directs the hot air through the mix door.

    It may not be the hottest heater in the world. But after 8 years of it not working... I'm happy :D



    Now to get the Air con re-gassed and pressure tested to see if there are problems on the cooling side of things.
     
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  9. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    been watching this good luck mate :beer chug:
     
  10. VPRob

    VPRob Active Member

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    Good on you for getting that flap operating through the heater slot. That polystyrene is an insulating layer that lines the bottom of the heater box.
    I've pulled out a VP heater box and re-built it and it is a can of worms that I wouldn't want to re-visit. One thing I learned is that if you have a leak in the aircon system you can replace the O rings where the pipes connect to the evaporator WITHOUT removing the dash and heater box. This is done from under the plenum cover where the wipers etc are mounted. There are NO O rings inside the vehicle or inside the heater box assembly. NONE. The evaporator is a fairly robust looking bit of gear. I don't know how commonly they fail but, I suspect, not often. I replaced mine because it was sooo much work to rebuild the heater box that I wanted to be sure it was for keeps. The evaporator has long pipes that extend all the way to the top of the firewall where they connect to the gas pipes from inside the engine bay. That is where my aircon leak was located and it's one spot your aircon mechanic can't really check (without removing the dash and perhaps the heater box too).
    I suspect there are a lot of early commies with non functioning aircon that could be made operational by the relatively straightforward job of replacing those O rings without disturbing the dash and heater box.
    Another thing FYI: I have been told by a reliable source that the lubricating oil that is used in conjunction with the current aircon gas is highly highly toxic. It is a bright green colour so it's easy to spot.
     
  11. mickVS84

    mickVS84 Member

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    Good to hear that you got it back in mate, and yes that air con gas is very poisonous i found that out when i worked for toyota.
     
  12. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    Anybody else had this?
    I got the blower fixed a while ago they got it out without taking the dash out.
    It`s got no heat.
    The heater core and hoses past the heater tap are hot.
    I`m hoping they may have disconnected a vacumm hose everything else is working vents up/down windscreen.
    The block under the radio was replaced a while ago.
    Cheers Pete.
    PS. I`ll take it back to the guys who did the blower.
    Have to have a look too.
     
  13. Wozza

    Wozza Well-Known Member

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    Climate control or exec level control?
    If exec there is a metal rod that can be misaligned or pop off completely..with the knob over on heat the white lever should be pushing up against a black button....if climate control nfi sorry.....Doh!!!! just read the old orig heading its climate control :) .....ignore the above....
     
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  14. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    The VS is gone in will update
     
  15. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Great, like to here what the prob is. I still have a luke warm heater once I engage the compressor even with heat turned to full. Yet it's hot without the compressor on. Been wanting to get it looked at but not wanting to spend coin on the boring stuff right now, lol.
     
  16. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    mybe your heater door is not open all the way.
    (Climate control or exec level control?)
     
  17. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Exec Pete.
     
  18. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    Try this mate.
     
  19. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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    The heater door motor (Motor - air mix) second hand was put in all good we have heat.
    I have to scan diagram and put up. WIP.
     
  20. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    What did the slug you Pete if you don't mind, even hours taken would do. Gives me a rough idea. My actuator rod is in tact and is pushing on the white button too. I think there must be a flap inside that covers the evap when the heater is turned to hot and that it is possibly not closing tight enough.
    I could use a new core as you can smell coolant when its turned on for the first time each day. But its not bad enough to spend the 150 bucks plus an hour or two labor to have it fitted. That is if he agrees to fit it the quick and easy way.
     

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