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Looks like there's two in the valley (see pic), and they sit under the intake runners so yes the heads would have to come off. Timing chains shouldn't really have to be replaced but maybe it's a 'while we're there' job because so much of the engine has to come apart. Can't really say I've heard...

Don't half ass it and just buy the rears.

OP, did you buy two Aerpro looms or just one? Also a chance they could have cut it off and rejoined it under all that black tape as it was a pretty common thing to do back in the day. Should be something you can do yourself, have a read of this : [VT-VX] - Installing an aftermarket Head Unit |...

Have also heard the quality is not what it used to be on a lot of stuff also.

The harmonic balancer is keyed, it will only fit on in one position so there's no chance of advancing or retarding it even if you wanted to. As for Loctite I've had it fine without before, just rattled it up with the ugga dugga method. Like Shane said, if in doubt.

Rattle gun may not be sufficient if the bolt has been in there for a really long time, really strong breaker bar with a pole has saved me a couple of times. Sounds odd but I reason that the breaker has far more leverage than the rattle gun.

These are supposed to be a sealed unit/lifetime fluid or something dumb so you will need to install a dipstick kit. Transmission is the filled through the dipstick tube also.

Not Victoria, but the RTA inspection stations in my state do enforce the rules quite vigorously and you usually have to go back a couple of times before they pass it. This is a really common problem for those covers which heaps of VSs have so I doubt it will be the first one they've seen. My...

Bonnet is either from a VR or they've had the holes welded up (pretty sure mine had holes). It is popular to remove them and get rid of the adhesive on other cars for a cleaner look though. As for the airbag cover, my last VS had this problem and passed a government RTA type inspection in my...

Re-reading this thread, you shouldn't have to change anything. All the VXs and VYs used the 3 bolt diff flanges with the rubber donuts, and there is no 4 bolt donut so I'm not sure what you're seeing.

You sure the car isn't just lifting one rear wheel slightly more than the other and single spinning?

Have a read of this too, you will need to mark the nut if you take it off - Changing flange on LSD, from 3 bolt to 4 bolt | Just Commodores

You bolt the M78 flange onto the M80. Or get another tailshaft with the flange to match like EYY said. You got pictures? Maybe it will be easier to explain that way.

Found the thread for this in the comments - 06 SVZ Turbo | Just Commodores

That's the new fourth gen LGX V6, a couple of generations newer with GDI and integrated manifolds with some pretty cutting edge turbos. Supposed to be 250kw at the engine, but that would be on a factory tune. On paper they should be up to the task in stock form with the right tune, 6 bolt mains...

Wait till you've got it all so you can get it tuned all at once, there will be gains during tuning with the intercooler. That way you're not paying for tuning when you get the charger and then again when you get the injectors.

Just need the auto flags turned off, all the L67 ECUs (inc VX and VY) had memcals so it's easier to do.

Start basic, can you hear pump prime when you turn the key to 'on' (not ignition)?

^^^ Pretty much this, most factory systems are actually okay now as we're past the crappy mixer systems from 100 years ago, the injection systems pretty much put it on par with petrol (even better than petrol for the LPG EcoLPi liquid phase injection Barra, but Ford made a couple of changes to...

Google - " A dual fuel 235 hp (175 kW; 238 PS) version able to run on petrol and autogas (LPG) has also been produced by Holden in Australia. " Would think that physically the engine would be exactly the same minus the differences for the gas fittings in the manifold.

Will totally depend on the setup and turbo size, most setups will be different, there are a number of people though who have done it if you look. As for them blowing, again to much of a blanket statement. Will depend on if they're maintained and have had their PCV systems modded to function...

One on the left is from an L67 (M90), one on the right is from a supercharged Buick 3800 used in the states (M62).

If it's a VR Buick engine, then 100% it will not, if it's an L67 or Ecotec then yes it will.

What do the rockers have to do with fitting a supercharger and what kind of supercharger is it? You'll only be able to fit the supercharger if it's centrifugal and will pretty likely need tuning. And no the rockers won't fit.

You convert the M80 to fit the tailshaft, you don't change anything on the tailshaft. You undo the big nut in the 4 bolt flange and bolt the 3 bolt one from your old diff in. Others will chime in about if this will effect the backlash or the preload. Do you know what model this diff came from?

Got a link of the kit? Keen to look at it.

The term you're looking for is lumpy idle. And it's pretty clear that every car you've linked is cammed. Nothing like that you can achieve with just an exhaust, or at least it will sound nothing like that with a stock engine. Some of the characteristic also comes from the firing order and alot...

A lot of the cost looks like pre-fabbed OE piping assemblies (similar to hydraulic steering lines) where many transmission shops would just use generic flexible trans lines, only thing is you really need to know how to use compression fittings for it to be reliable instead of just cutting hard...

If you've got a welder you can try welding a washer to it and then a bolt to the washer, just let it cool off in between and before you start wrenching on it. Have had friends also have success drilling a small hole in the middle of the broken stud and hammering an allen key in when exhaust...

Covid tax, it's happening with every car that's even the slightest bit fun or desirable ATM.

That's not a terrible price and would probably be a pretty good starting point (if it's got the cats and not straight pipes), particularly given the Walkinshaw stuff is supposed to be made by Difilippo which is a bunch of he stuff that Shane linked above ^^^

Avoid - doesn't even say what type of car they're for (probably engine swap headers given they're block huggers). If you have no idea what you're doing/have or looking at stick to brand name stuff. Doesn't look like they would do that much more than the stock headers. You'd probably be better...

Sure you can do all that. It's a huge waste of money on a 3.0 though.

Basically you need the entire front end as all of it's different. Someone has done a T56 conversion but it's completely custom. Because it's based on mainly a road car I wouldn't say it's great for heavy off roading. I think it's worth doing, but If you're using this for work and are working...

Looks like the Alloytec uses an LS style balancer with spokes, and the hooks on this remover sit behind the spokes, so would say this won't work for a VR.

3 jaw puller should be a pretty standard tool and there's nothing special about Commo balancers, I just use a $30 one from ebay and it works great.

Bunch of people seemed to have this issue when turning corners and it ended up being an issue with the tank, whether it be with fuel/breather lines, the swirl pot, or the fuel sender. Bogging down with acceleration would also point to a fuel issue. VT stalls when turning right. | Page 2 | Just...

Pictures of these plates? Are you sure they're not the c-spanners or the rear spring sleeves?

Doubt a battery is going to help fix your knock sensor. If the car sees a knock sensor as malfunctioning it will probably retard the timing heaps so that it minimizes the risk of detonation because it basically can't detect detonation anymore. So yes, losing a knock sensor will make it lose power.

Changed the tyres? Different tyre on the spare? It's not about aftermarket. The wheels need to be rebalanced every time the tyres are changed, every tyre and wheel will balance differently. Weights are pretty much a consumable and extremely generic, no tyre shop is going to try and reuse old...